well you knew it was coming...plumbing Qs

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well you knew it was coming...plumbing Qs

Postby spbreeder on Thu Mar 10, 2005 2:43 pm

Here are some photos of what I am doing (now that the pressure is on to get it done by April). Image
Image
Image
If you look at the full view you can understand that I have 2 overflows, one on either end and the one on the left will be split to go to the fuge and the sump. My question.....On the bottom of the overflow there is a union joint then a T. Immediately off the T to the fuge side is a 45 elbow, then a ball valve. After the ball valve another 45 then the pvc just runs to the fuge. On the right side of the T it goes farther at a 90 deg. angle before dropping to the sump. Will the 45 elbow after the T draw enough water to the sump? Do you fore see any problems with the plan as of this point?

Denise
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Postby Ereefic on Thu Mar 10, 2005 3:06 pm

Personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable splitting the line from an overflow to feed 2 different tanks (sump and fuge). It may work just fine, but i'd be worried that water is draining inconsistantly between the 2 drains. It may all equal out, but I don't know.

Another thing, from looking at the pic, you'll probably want a better stand under that fuge tank to the left. It looks like it isn't being supported in the right places, the sides and corners.
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Postby spbreeder on Thu Mar 10, 2005 3:15 pm

The little stools are kinda in the middle right now but can be moved to the outsides so it is supporting the ends and they are wide enough front to back to support it all, I still have to get the tank drilled so I didn't worry so much about their exact placement. I jumped up and down on them a few :oops: times so I know they can take a lot of weight :lol: .

As far as the split overflow...won't the ball valve going to the fuge allow me to correct the flow if the drilled tank isn't flowing enough?
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Postby spbreeder on Fri Mar 11, 2005 8:19 am

?????????
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Postby BraenDead on Fri Mar 11, 2005 9:22 am

Using a ball valve will allow you to control the flows. Personally, I put ball valves and unions all over the place in my plumbing so I can stop the water flow and disconnect the pipes very easily/quickly if need be. Keep in mind that the water from teh overflow will go more towards whichever side has less water pressure (affected by the depth of the pipe in the water). So if one is 4" below the water surface, the other 2" below, it will flow more towards the one 2" below.

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Postby MattK on Fri Mar 11, 2005 9:30 am

The ball valve should control how much water goes into the fuge vs. how much goes directly to the sump just fine. Just dial it in once you have water flowing through the system.

Something to keep in mind when you plumb the fuge to the sump: The outlet from the fuge should be into the same compartment as the return pump. This will allow the critters that live in the fuge a chance to make it into the main tank.
In an ideal world, the fuge would be higher than the display so the trip to the main tank doesn't go through a pump and uses gravity. Since I've yet to see a setup that has the space to do this, so draining into the return pump part is the best we can do.

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Postby spbreeder on Fri Mar 11, 2005 10:20 am

Good idea. Thanks for the input. I am going to get everything where it needs to be today so i can hopefully get things running without the fuge till it is drilled.
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Plumbing

Postby Toddah on Sat Mar 12, 2005 11:44 am

Hey SPbreeder,
Got a few questions about the plumbing to be sure I undersand what you are trying to do.

Can one of the overflow boxes you are using handle the total output of your return pump ?

If you could just feed the whole output from your second overflow into the refugium and then from there into your sump.

I am running over 2000 GPH thru my sump Refugium with no problems.
This would GREATLY reduce the complexity of your plumbing and make it more foolproof.

I agree with Eric about the stands, if you want to use them go to Home Depot and have a chunk of 3/4" plywood cut to the size of the tank bottom + 1/4" and place that on top of the stands then set to aquarium on top of the plywood.
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Postby spbreeder on Sat Mar 12, 2005 4:12 pm

Todd,
I thought about that and it would make things much easier, my concern was that 600-700 gph would be too much for a 25 gal fuge (which will prob. be more like 20 gal. once sand is added). What do you think. I just don't want sand blasted down to the return area. My return pump is rated at 1400 gph. It will have a few 90 deg. angles and a ball valve but it still may it may be too much (Eric has dibs).

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Flow thru

Postby Toddah on Sat Mar 12, 2005 7:44 pm

My first Sump/Refuguim was made from a 20 gallon tank and I ran 1800 gallons per hour thru it with no problem. I made it wit 3 walls cut from plexiglass and "glued" in place with 100% pure clear silicone. I think it cost about 25 bucks to get the Plexiglass cut to my specs and 2 hours to put it all together.
http://www.madisonreef.com/gallery/disp ... p?pos=-117

Water comes in from the overflow into the far right chamber and passes thru the two rectangular holes cut into the wall about 3 inches up from the bottom.
Water fills the refugium chamber and then waterfalls over the second wall and then goes UNDER the last wall and the pump picks it up and pushes it back to the main show tank.

In my current reiteration of this sump design I did away with the two holes and simply raised the first wall up 3/4 of an inch and installed an short 3 inch wall right next to it so the water goes under the first wall and is forced up into the refugium chamber.
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Postby spbreeder on Tue Mar 15, 2005 10:30 am

I DID IT!!! 8) I opened the stinky glue! Alright, I teflon taped the adapter from the overflow and glued on the union joint, but it is a step. The 29 should be done being drilled today and my new skimmer should be here tomorrow, hopefully it'll be up and running without a hitch Thursday. Wish me luck, denise
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Postby BraenDead on Tue Mar 15, 2005 11:36 am

Sounds like a good start! Let us know if you have any questions along the way.

Good luck!

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Postby friogatto on Tue Mar 15, 2005 1:41 pm

Here is an idea that may help.
Have one return go to the refugium and one go to the sump.
The return going to the refugium should be plumbed with flexible PVC.
The flexible PVC comes out of the overflow box straight to the floor, then follows the floor to the 29 gal and up and over the tank wall, or through the bulkhead.
Making this large U shape will help keep bubbles from entering the refugium.
Even better would be to put your refugium on a higher stand. About 4-6" shorter than the main tank stand. Then use a similar U shape.
The reason I bring this up is that when you are grown Cheato it collects bubbles and makes it float above the water surface and kills the top layer of cheato.
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Postby spbreeder on Tue Mar 15, 2005 1:56 pm

Interesting idea. I was going to use an eggcrate divider to keep the macro on the side of the fuge away from the drilled hole (to keep it out of the sump) I hadn't even thought of it floating. I am going to also put some live rock in the fuge where the water is coming in from the overflow, if I direct the flow on the rocks as it enters will that help with bubbles?
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Postby spbreeder on Sat Mar 19, 2005 10:31 am

Well...... the plumbing is all glued. The 29 I was having drilled was tempered (only marked as the bottom being tempered :x ) and broke so I am using a rubbermaid fuge as well. I am rinsing the sand and am going to try to turn it on in a little while. I was scared to glue????? Now I am scared to turn it on. Wussy. Anyway, wish me luck, ladies night out tonight and I don't want to miss it cleaning up water :wink: . Denise
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